April 12: see pictures related to this blog in the photo library

I had grand plans of photographing the sunrise coming over the mountains this morning, but it was not to be as I stayed up too late
   last night posting my updates and pictures. Not only did I oversleep, I
   was awoken by Will Cross of all people. The irony, the Horror! 

The skies had cleared while we slept and we woke to the sun shining
   bright through the window. Looking out we saw that the curtain of cloud
   was drawn and we were greeted by the spectacular view of Mt. Ama Dablam
   and Mt. Lhotse. Every rock, ice and speck of snow was towering high up,
   opening the day for us in glory unmatched anywhere else in the world.
   Coincidentally, for the believers amongst us this morning must have
   been akin to the resurrection of their towering inspiration, which this
   day celebrates.

   On that note, Jesse asked me specially to shout a big Happy Easter from him to everyone. So HAPPY EASTER everybody!

   Everyone had a great sleep last night at the Khumjung Hotel, one of the
   three lodges owned and run by Himalayan Chain resorts, part of the
   ASTREK group. Our sleep was especially sweet because we were all very
   tired from a long day walking through some of the most picturesque
   terrain and, of course, there was more to come today.

   We set off from Khumjung soon after 9:30 and were fast heading
   down the hill to Phunki Thanga where we planned to have lunch. We were
   all at our lunch spot at an early quarter to 10 and a unanimous
   decision was made to continue on to Tengboche where we would have
   lunch.

   The path from Khumjung to Tengboche goes straight down to Phunki Thanga
   where we cross the Dudh Koshi river and climb up again. The bridge at
   Phunki Thanga is constructed entirely of wooden beams and plywood and
   is called a Sango. Until 2007 a large cable bridge spanned high above
   the torrents, but heavy rains in the late monsoon literally cut under
   the enormous boulder anchoring it in place, causing it to dislodge and
   topple into the river bed. In fact, 4 bridges were washed away in the
   Khumbu alone that August of 2007. Fortunately, this new bridge was created in
   a half year together with other bridges allowing the lives of the local
   people and treks of the tourists to continue as before.

   After a hot and dusty climb to the top of the hill, we arrived at the
   famous Tengboche Monastery perched majestically at the top of the
   ridge. If a religious site is meant to provide divine inspiration, then
   Tengboche is where they meant. Walking up the last steps into
   Tengboche, we saw the first view of Mt. Everest, plumes of cloud rising
   from the summit. All around, in a 360 degree panorama, we could see
   mountains: Kwangde, Khumbila, Phari Lapcha, Taboche, Nuptse,
   Chomolungma (Everest), Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Khang Tega and Thamserku and
   many other peaks that I could not identify.

   I confess that in this divine setting, we were tempted to exercise our
   worldly sin. Just below the monastery is the Bakery where each and
   every one of us indulged in gluttony. I personally had a large piece of
   fresh-out-of-the-oven chocolate cake engulfed in creamy white frosting.

   Soon the sound of conch shells started to blow out one of the windows
   in the monastery signifying that the puja, or prayer service was about
   to start. Once the monks and the tourists funnelled into the main
   prayer hall, loud earthly sounds from the long brass horns blew
   menacingly and the deep guttural prayers of the monks engulfed the
   congregation. Pertemba led the Eco Everest group to the front, where
   the 80-year-old chief monk sat. One by one we offered him our Khada
   which he put around our necks, a valued blessing.

   From this Monastery, the Tengboche Rinpoche reigns over the spiritual
   realm of the Sherpas. Until the time my grandfather passed away, they
   were close friends and it is important to me to visit him each time I
   head into the mountains. Though he was not present at the monastery, I
   am content to have seen him a couple weeks ago at the opening of the
   Art Exhibition that he inaugurated. My non-profit which I named IDEAS
   organised the Art Exhibition together with art students and faculty of
   the Kathmandu University, who created works of sculpture out of the
   garbage we had brought down on Eco Everest Expedition 2008.

   IDEAS stands for Initiatives for Development and Eco Action Support. As
   the name suggests, I want to encourage, facilitate and support the
   initiatives of likeminded people in local communities to help them
   better their lives in harmony with the fragile environment they live in.

   With each step we get closer to our goal, but when walking ahead we tend
   to forget those who are pushing us on from behind. Seeing our purpose
   and the path to achievement, I would like to reflect upon all of you
   who are behind us. Every member on this team today talked about their
   loved ones and I know that though you are thousands of miles away, you
   are right here in our hearts tonight, in this divine place.

   Happy Easter, Moeke!

Dawa Steven Sherpa