April 20 2009

Today is one of the most important days for our expedition. On this auspicious day, we pray to Chomolungma, Mother goddess of the Earth, otherwise known as Mt. Everest. We request her permission to climb her slopes, ask her forgiveness for disturbing her and beg her to keep us safe from danger. This is our puja day. A puja is a ritual prayer ceremony and it is especially important to Sherpas, who by nature are very spiritual.
In the morning, all Sherpas and members of the expedition congregated around a stone altar known as the Lhapso. When setting up base camp, the Sherpas reserve a coveted spot in camp to build a 4-foot tall altar, entirely built of white stone, chipped and shaped laboriously by hand. On the morning of the Puja the altar is decorated with pictures of deities and lamas, beautiful silk scarves, flowers, silver bowls and other items. The center piece on our Lhapso was the special urn the Tengboche Rinpoche (abbot) had given Apa to take the top.
Phu Tashi, one of our Sherpas, used to be a monk at the Tengboche monastery and was able to perform the entire ritual. While he was chanting and making mystical motions with his hands, we sat around him on the floor while Phurba, the oldest climbing Sherpa (52) kept pouring us hot tea and later rice beer. The uniqne tradition of the Sherpas of not taking no for an answer when serving food or drink made very sure that we were fully hydrated or happy depending on what you were drinking.

The time came and everyone got up, the flag pole with the prayer flags was now being hoisted by an army of men all shouting and directing. The pole was inserted in a cavity on top of the altar while prayer flags were being spanned in five different directions over the camp. The prayer flag are called Lungdar, or windhorse, on each flag are prayers and it is believed that when they flutter in the wind the prayers are carried around the world bring good tidings to everyone.
Immediately after the puja, we cleared the floor of the mats and the Sherpas linked arms and stood shoulder to shoulder in a crescent formation. The dancing was about to start. The members were placed strategically between good dancers so that the members could easily copy the moves. As soon as everyone was in position, without any cue a gentle wailing sound burst out in unison and the chain of dancers started slowly to move side to side and stamping their feet in rhythm. Over the next few verses, the dancing gathered pace and the stamping gathered force. Soon we were polishing the glacier ice under us to a clean shine.
After every dance, we would take a sip of our drink, gather our breath and dance again. This was the first time all the Sherpas and members were able to meet each other and socialise. An important day, not only for the deities but also for team spirit.

Dawa Steven Sherpa